By Marshall Thompson

Today Apa arrived safely at Base Camp. He was surprisingly full of energy and ready to get home to his family as soon as possible. I appreciate his attitude because I can’t wait to see my family as well. I’m planning on leaving tomorrow morning so this is going to be my last blog post from Base Camp. While it seems like a dream to be going home after Apa’s amazing 20th summit, I have to admit that I will miss it here. I will miss the random conversations with friends from Finland, India, Nepal, Canada and the U.S. as we huddle around a gas heater after dinner. I will miss watching the morning sun illuminate the tip of Mount Pumori and turn the white snow gold. Most of all, I will miss living at the feet of the Goddess, Chomolungma. It’s obvious, however, that it’s time to go. The glacier seems as if it might melt away completely any day now. My tent now sits on a pinnacle of ice that gets smaller every day. A small stream near the foot of our camp has now carved a deep icy tube into the glacier that is filled with frothy, cold water. When I first got to Base Camp, large rocks stood on pillars of ice like strange stunted trees. The rock protects the ice beneath it from the sun while the rest of the glacier melts around it. One day, Dawa Steven and I tried to topple a particularly precarious rock. Despite several minutes of our best pushes and kicks, it would not budge. I went for a walk today and found that the rock had finally fallen under its own weight and the heat of the sun. Somehow, this seemed appropriate. It’s time to go. In three days, Apa and I will fly from Lukla to Kathmandu – out of the Himalayas and into the smog and heat of the city. There will be parties, meetings, and press conferences, but it’s only a week-long hurdle that must be endured. Then we’ll finally be on our way home to Utah. We both miss our families very much.

Apa’s goal in climbing this year was to help efforts to increase educational opportunities in the Khumbu Region, which includes the areas around Mount Everest.

In a statement he prepared in anticipation of reaching the summit, he said, “I am thankful to have been able to climb Mount Everest for the 20th time. I climbed this year to raise awareness about the Apa Sherpa foundation, which is dedicated to increasing educational opportunities for people in the Himalayan Region. I also climbed to bring attention to the damage done to the Himalayas because of global climate change.”

The Apa Sherpa Foundation was recently organized as a nonprofit organization to help Apa extend the educational opportunities that his children have to his fellow Sherpa in the Khumbu. For more information, go to http://www.apasherpafoundation.org/.

Apa was just named the SAARC Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Change. The South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation, includes Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan.

Apa would also like to thank his sponsors that made this new world record possible:

SD7 Technology Group – IT Business Services
First Ascent / Eddie Bauer – Official Outfitter
Suunto - Superior High Altitude Watches
Hot Chillys - Highest Quality Performance Base Layers
Travel Host Magazine
Bohemian Brewery - Voted Number 1 Best Brew & Grill in Utah
Diamond Mold, Inc / Biomerics – Medical and Aerospace Injection Molding Specialists
Hoopes Vision – The Leading LASIK Eye Surgery Practice Serving the Salt Lake City, Utah Area
8 Zone -  A New Weight Loss Program That Was Created by Olympic Gold Medalist Apolo Anton Ohno
Asian Trekking Partners with SuperSherpas (R)  – For Your Himalayan Adventure Travel, and Expedition Needs
Solarus Lending Group

Twitter:

http://www.twitter.com/apasherpa

Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/apasherpa

You can ask any questions you want and I will respond within less than a half hour.

Outside there are heavy clouds over Mount Everest right now. It’s beautiful by moonlight. Birbal, the cook, has been burning incense at the puja altar and the prayer flags above are illuminated by the flickering yellow light.

As the team leaves from Camp 4, we’re a bit worried down here about the snowfall at higher altitudes. The team delayed their departure by about 45 minutes because of the snow, but they say now that it’s not that bad.

It’s going to be a long night.

 The first thing I did when I heard about this was ask Apa if he knew that he was going to be nominated. He said, “No. But it’s good.”

 We talked about it a bit more. It’s a big deal. SAARC, the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation, includes Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan. So, Apa will be representing a huge portion of the world’s population as he speaks out about global climate change.

 “I’m happy to be the new goodwill ambassador,” Apa said. “If we don’t all raise our voices, then who will speak for the mountains.”

Fortunately, there were still two tents standing and they’ve all piled into them. They report that it’s actually quite cozy and that they’re doing very well. In the meantime, Nanga and Tenzing ran some tents up from Camp 2 to Camp 3 to make sure they had enough room.

I just heard from Nanga and he’s back and Camp 2 and said everyone is doing fine despite the snow.

He went directly to the mess tent, had a few cups of tea, and then went to the puja altar and offered some prayers. He took pictures with his friends from Utah and other states and then led the team of Sherpas up into the Khumbu Ice Fall.

We plan on him reaching Camp 2 today and resting there one full day. On the May 21, he’ll go to Camp 4, rest for a few hours, and then reach the summit on the morning of May 22. Then he’ll come back down, we’ll get to Kathmandu as fast as possible, and have a big party on May 29, which is Everest Day in Nepal.

That’s the plan for now. I will keep you posted.

On May 12, the Asian Trekking team organized the removal of this body as well as a body found higher up in the Ice Fall. After the body was removed from the ice it was taken down to a nearby city and buried respectfully.

A body emerges in the glacier just below the ice flow. Some think the body is over 30 years old and died in the Khumbu Ice Fall several miles behind it.

By Marshall Thompson

While we were waiting for the weather to clear up this week, Apa participated in the Eco Everest clean-up of human bodies on and around Mount Everest. In total, they respectfully removed three bodies from the lower part of the Khumbu Ice Fall and from the glacier. This happened, a few days ago, but I haven’t written about it until now. That’s because it’s a hard subject for me.

First of all, these three bodies have family members and loved ones who care about them deeply. Only one of the bodies was identified and returned to his family for burial or cremation.

Secondly, the fact that dead bodies had to be removed from the Ice Fall is a poignant and unwelcomed reminder of the dangers involved with climbing Mount Everest. I don’t wish to make anyone back home worry.

Finally, I have personally had a hard time with this subject because of my past experiences in Iraq. I was a soldier there from 2005 to 2006 and I still deal with post traumatic stress disorder. Seeing the dead bodies brought back some terrible feelings and memories. The difference here, however, is that these three people died doing their jobs and doing what they loved. They were removed from the mountain with respect and dignity.

I just want to thank Apa and everyone else who took the time to move these bodies to a proper resting place. I think everyone at Base Camp has slept better since.

Apa: Up until the last two years, I’ve climbed to support my family and also support my childrens’ education. But for the last two years, the reason I keep climbing is because I want to help Nepal. I want to improve children’s education in Nepal, especially in the remote areas. The second thing is that I want to help keep our mountain clean. It’s very important. This is why I keep coming and keep cleaning the mountain.

[Go to apasherpafoundation.org for more information on Apa’s charitable work.]

What is the toughest and most dangerous part of mount everest climb? And one more plzz what should a novice climber do to reach the summit of everest?

Hey…..what is the toughest and most dangerous part of everest climb? and what should a beginner do to climb mount Everest? thanks for this opportunity to ask the questions from the great Apa Sherpa…..

Apa: The toughest and most dangerous part is the Khumbu Ice Fall. The Khumbu Ice Fall is very dangerous. It doesn’t matter if you have experience or not, it’s just very dangerous. There are other tough parts, like the Hillary Step, but the danger is in the Ice Fall.

They have to train a lot. They have to climb a lot at high altitudes. They have to have the experience. Climb some other 8,000 meter peaks, like Choy Oyu, first.

Namaste! As a fellow Salt Lake City resident, I’d like to ask Apa what his favorite trails and climbs are around the Salt Lake/Wasatch area. I’m a trail runner and climber and would love to run into him some day! Cheers and Good Luck!

Diddo on the question from Steve Luker from Salt Lake City. Apa, what mountains along the Wasatch Front do you like to climb if it is that you have climbed them? Be safe as we all look forward to your return. The Wasatch Spring has been cold and wet but you should return to a beautiful summer.

Apa: I like Timpanogas and Kings Peak. Kings Peak is the highest mountain in Utah.

Hi Apa! First of all, I’m from Croatia, and I want to tell you that you have many friends here. Lot of people have heard about your Himalaya’s expeditions and contribution to nature maintenance, especially in time when lot of climbers are not conscious in that way.
I wish you good luck on your 20th summit and I hope that you will, first of all return safely to your family!
My question is:
Who is your favourite friend (sherpa) that you, most of all, like to climb with?Do you personaly know Phurba Tashi sherpa, what do you think about him, he is closest to 20th summit after you.
Cheers from Zadar, 0 feet above sea level
Franko

Apa: Actually, I didn’t ever climb with Tenzing Norgay, but he is my favorite person. He was the first guy to find the route to Everest. Even though I didn’t ever climb with him, he is my favorite.

Yes, Phurba is my friend. He is younger than me and most people think that I’m in competition with them, but I’m not. My goal is just to climb every year and help out with the clean-up of Mount Everest. People think we’re in competition, we’re not. I encourage him to beat my record.

Which of the 19 times you’ve already summited has been the most meaningful and why?

Apa: The most memorable was my first time summiting Mount Everest. The first time was better than any time since then.

You are probably the best mountaineer in the world. So why you’re not as famous as Messner or Kukuczka? Do you think Sherpas are underestimated by western media?
Good luck:-)
Aleksandra

Apa: It’s strange, you know, our Sherpa people do all the hard work, but in the media, they focus only on the Western people, not on the Sherpa. The Sherpa have very poor education, so sometimes the Western media may ask them a question, but they won’t know how to answer.

Namaste Apa… We’re practically neighbors here in Utah (I live in Cottonwood Heights) and I’m a big fan. In November 2008, I trekked the Khumba Region for 19 days and fell in love with the area. Although I enjoy climbing, I have no desire to summit Everest but appreciate all you’re doing to bring awareness to climate change. Have you ever visited Ouray Colorado and seen their ice-climbing festival? Namaste and please be safe.

Apa: No, but I would love to go sometime.

Namaste Apa,

Whats going through your mind this time while you’re accompanying Sir Hillary for his last trip to Everest..
Given now even kids are attempting the summit what message you have for aspiring folks..

Best wishes for your safe return & Happy Summiting..
Regards,
Samyak Jain

[Apa won’t be taking the Ashes of Sir Edmund Hillary to the top of Mount Everest. Local lamas felt it would be inappropriate. Next year, there will be a ceremony for the ashes at the Khumjung School that he helped establish.]

Apa, your acclimatization rotation is much shorter than other team members. Is this your normal, comfortable rotation or is it short even by your standards?

Apa: When I used to live in Thame, I would only sleep on the mountain two or three nights because I didn’t need to get acclimated. Since I live in the States now, I took an extra night or two to make sure that I got acclimated. This time was just a little bit longer for me than usual.

Will you say something special to Chomolungma on your 20th summit?
, and can you say what that is?

Apa: Yes. I’m going to pray and say thank you to Chomolungma because she’s looking after me. So far I haven’t even gotten frost bite. So I need to say thank you to Chomolungma.

Hi Apa, i am holding the rock that you so kindly gave me, you know the one it is so cool that i can do it while i communicate with you near the top of the world. Are you planning to skip any of the camps on the bid to summit? I watch my prayer flags thinking of you and the team.
Steve and Lila

Apa: I’m going to skip Camp 1 and Camp3, and just stay in Camp 2 and Camp 4. You’ve helped me a lot in the past. Thank you.

Another question:
With all the high-profile errands and missions you have on this landmark climb are you prepared to abort it if you have to and come back next year to get it all done or are you determined to do it in 2010 or never?
Are you any more inclined to take more risks this time given the extra responsibility to deliver on all these missions? Obviously not all decisions can be calculted and planned out ahead of time, but under what situations/conditions would you make the tough decision to abort these missions and adjorn until next year?
Also, when faced with unexpected circumstances or tough decisions like this, do you rely most on your instincts (experience), or “science”, or statistics, or something else?
Prepared to cheer for you as much in 2011, as in 2010
Hope the hardest decision you have to make is how to celebrate complete vicrory
Roman

Apa: I’m trying very hard to make it this time. I tell everyone here, even myself, that Everest will always be here. Life is more important. If we don’t make it, we can always try next year.

Hello Apa! My name is Justin and I am 9 years old. I live in Michigan in the U.S.A. When you get to the bottom of Mt. Everest after you have reached the summit and come back down again, what do you plan to do?

How can I get your autograph? My Mom lets me check your blog.
Have a safe trip.

Apa: Justin,

I will go back to Base Camp and pray again to Chomolungma to say thank you for safe climbing and safe return. I will burn incense at a puja altar and thank Chomolungma for my safety.

Are you scared? What are your biggest worries?

Apa: Yes, I am scared every time. On the mountain you never know. I am worried for my family. I want to see my family again.

I am also very interested about what trails you enjoy here in Salt Lake.
Do you feel that the mountain has been polluted by “clients” who are ill suited to summit and do not respect it as they should? How does it make you feel about so many foreigners who selfishly climb Everest?
You are so inspiring to me. I hope to do great things like you someday.
Good luck! Stay safe!

Apa: Actually, I would like everyone to feel welcome who wants to climb Everest. I would say to the people who want to climb Mount Everest that they must be prepared very well and train a lot. Without training, you should not try to climb Mount Everest.

Mount Everest has been polluted, but most of the pollution is from the past and we’re trying to clean it up right now. Our government is controlling the waste and requiring every expedition to pay deposits that they will lose if they leave a mess on the mountain. Keeping the mountain clean is very important.

 You may not be aware of this, but it gets cold at night at 17,500 feet and above. Thankfully, one of Apa’s sponsors is Hot Chillys. They make some of the best insulating layers you can get. When Apa is heading for his 20^th Everest summit, he’ll be wearing Hot Chillys underneath. 

I have a couple of pairs of Hot Chillys too and they’re amazing. On the ten-day trek up to base camp they were invaluable. When it got cold, they kept me warm. When it got hot, the light weight construction and breathability kept me from overheating. 

Hot Chillys has also donated over $10,000 in product to be sold in Namche. All the proceeds go to the school in Thame, Apa’s hometown. That’s why Apa is proud to be sponsored by Hot Chillys.