By Marshall Thompson
Today Apa arrived safely at Base Camp. He was surprisingly full of energy and ready to get home to his family as soon as possible. I appreciate his attitude because I can’t wait to see my family as well. I’m planning on leaving tomorrow morning so this is going to be my last blog post from Base Camp. While it seems like a dream to be going home after Apa’s amazing 20th summit, I have to admit that I will miss it here. I will miss the random conversations with friends from Finland, India, Nepal, Canada and the U.S. as we huddle around a gas heater after dinner. I will miss watching the morning sun illuminate the tip of Mount Pumori and turn the white snow gold. Most of all, I will miss living at the feet of the Goddess, Chomolungma. It’s obvious, however, that it’s time to go. The glacier seems as if it might melt away completely any day now. My tent now sits on a pinnacle of ice that gets smaller every day. A small stream near the foot of our camp has now carved a deep icy tube into the glacier that is filled with frothy, cold water. When I first got to Base Camp, large rocks stood on pillars of ice like strange stunted trees. The rock protects the ice beneath it from the sun while the rest of the glacier melts around it. One day, Dawa Steven and I tried to topple a particularly precarious rock. Despite several minutes of our best pushes and kicks, it would not budge. I went for a walk today and found that the rock had finally fallen under its own weight and the heat of the sun. Somehow, this seemed appropriate. It’s time to go. In three days, Apa and I will fly from Lukla to Kathmandu – out of the Himalayas and into the smog and heat of the city. There will be parties, meetings, and press conferences, but it’s only a week-long hurdle that must be endured. Then we’ll finally be on our way home to Utah. We both miss our families very much.
MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP ― Apa Sherpa just broke his own world’s record by summiting Mount Everest for the 20th time at 8:34 a.m. Saturday.
Apa’s goal in climbing this year was to help efforts to increase educational opportunities in the Khumbu Region, which includes the areas around Mount Everest.
In a statement he prepared in anticipation of reaching the summit, he said, “I am thankful to have been able to climb Mount Everest for the 20th time. I climbed this year to raise awareness about the Apa Sherpa foundation, which is dedicated to increasing educational opportunities for people in the Himalayan Region. I also climbed to bring attention to the damage done to the Himalayas because of global climate change.”
The Apa Sherpa Foundation was recently organized as a nonprofit organization to help Apa extend the educational opportunities that his children have to his fellow Sherpa in the Khumbu. For more information, go to http://www.apasherpafoundation.org/.
Apa was just named the SAARC Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Change. The South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation, includes Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan.
Apa would also like to thank his sponsors that made this new world record possible:
SD7 Technology Group – IT Business Services
First Ascent / Eddie Bauer – Official Outfitter
Suunto - Superior High Altitude Watches
Hot Chillys - Highest Quality Performance Base Layers
Travel Host Magazine
Bohemian Brewery - Voted Number 1 Best Brew & Grill in Utah
Diamond Mold, Inc / Biomerics – Medical and Aerospace Injection Molding Specialists
Hoopes Vision – The Leading LASIK Eye Surgery Practice Serving the Salt Lake City, Utah Area
8 Zone - A New Weight Loss Program That Was Created by Olympic Gold Medalist Apolo Anton Ohno
Asian Trekking Partners with SuperSherpas (R) – For Your Himalayan Adventure Travel, and Expedition Needs
Solarus Lending Group
From now until Apa summits Mount Everest for the 20th time, I’m going to be doing live updates on Twitter and Facebook.
Twitter:
http://www.twitter.com/apasherpa
Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/apasherpa
You can ask any questions you want and I will respond within less than a half hour.
Dawa Steven, the expedition leader, Chunu, the Nepali government liaison officer, and I are now barricaded in the communications tent. We brought in a small gas heater and have zipped up the doors and tried to plug all the cracks. It’s starting to get a bit warmer.
Outside there are heavy clouds over Mount Everest right now. It’s beautiful by moonlight. Birbal, the cook, has been burning incense at the puja altar and the prayer flags above are illuminated by the flickering yellow light.
As the team leaves from Camp 4, we’re a bit worried down here about the snowfall at higher altitudes. The team delayed their departure by about 45 minutes because of the snow, but they say now that it’s not that bad.
It’s going to be a long night.
While Apa was getting ready to climb Mount Everest, a group of South Asian countries were meeting to discuss important matters like climate change. During said meeting, Apa was named the new Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Change. I knew about this a week or so ago, but Apa got the official letter today. (I’ve attached an image of it if you want to read it.)
The first thing I did when I heard about this was ask Apa if he knew that he was going to be nominated. He said, “No. But it’s good.”
We talked about it a bit more. It’s a big deal. SAARC, the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation, includes Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan. So, Apa will be representing a huge portion of the world’s population as he speaks out about global climate change.
“I’m happy to be the new goodwill ambassador,” Apa said. “If we don’t all raise our voices, then who will speak for the mountains.”
Today Apa is resting at Camp 2 while the rest of the team went up to Camp 3. Tomorrow Apa will catch up to them at Camp 4, where they will all rest for a few hours before heading for the summit. Apa is doing very well in Camp 2, however, the rest of the team found an unwelcome site at Camp 3. Snows last night had completely covered two tents and they were unable to find them.
Fortunately, there were still two tents standing and they’ve all piled into them. They report that it’s actually quite cozy and that they’re doing very well. In the meantime, Nanga and Tenzing ran some tents up from Camp 2 to Camp 3 to make sure they had enough room.
I just heard from Nanga and he’s back and Camp 2 and said everyone is doing fine despite the snow.
Today at 5 a.m. Apa left base camp for his final summit push. If he is successful, it will be his 20th summit of Mount Everest and a new world record. I filmed the whole event and I was accompanied by three other camera men. It was a big deal. At 4:15 a.m. Andrew, who is filming a documentary for National Geographic, and I were poised outside of Apa’s tent hoping to catch the first moments of the historic event. I’m sure Apa loved that. (Although I warned him last night that I was going to do it.)
He went directly to the mess tent, had a few cups of tea, and then went to the puja altar and offered some prayers. He took pictures with his friends from Utah and other states and then led the team of Sherpas up into the Khumbu Ice Fall.
We plan on him reaching Camp 2 today and resting there one full day. On the May 21, he’ll go to Camp 4, rest for a few hours, and then reach the summit on the morning of May 22. Then he’ll come back down, we’ll get to Kathmandu as fast as possible, and have a big party on May 29, which is Everest Day in Nepal.
That’s the plan for now. I will keep you posted.
On May 12, the Asian Trekking team organized the removal of this body as well as a body found higher up in the Ice Fall. After the body was removed from the ice it was taken down to a nearby city and buried respectfully.
A body emerges in the glacier just below the ice flow. Some think the body is over 30 years old and died in the Khumbu Ice Fall several miles behind it.
By Marshall Thompson
While we were waiting for the weather to clear up this week, Apa participated in the Eco Everest clean-up of human bodies on and around Mount Everest. In total, they respectfully removed three bodies from the lower part of the Khumbu Ice Fall and from the glacier. This happened, a few days ago, but I haven’t written about it until now. That’s because it’s a hard subject for me.
First of all, these three bodies have family members and loved ones who care about them deeply. Only one of the bodies was identified and returned to his family for burial or cremation.
Secondly, the fact that dead bodies had to be removed from the Ice Fall is a poignant and unwelcomed reminder of the dangers involved with climbing Mount Everest. I don’t wish to make anyone back home worry.
Finally, I have personally had a hard time with this subject because of my past experiences in Iraq. I was a soldier there from 2005 to 2006 and I still deal with post traumatic stress disorder. Seeing the dead bodies brought back some terrible feelings and memories. The difference here, however, is that these three people died doing their jobs and doing what they loved. They were removed from the mountain with respect and dignity.
I just want to thank Apa and everyone else who took the time to move these bodies to a proper resting place. I think everyone at Base Camp has slept better since.
First off, I am a forty seven year old mother who likes to read. I happened upon this web site by chance after reading a book by some fellow left for dead while climbing Everest. I have been following every entry ever since then. Can you explain the addiction to climbing Everest that you have, especially since odds are against you surviving with every climb. Thanks Gem
Apa: Up until the last two years, I’ve climbed to support my family and also support my childrens’ education. But for the last two years, the reason I keep climbing is because I want to help Nepal. I want to improve children’s education in Nepal, especially in the remote areas. The second thing is that I want to help keep our mountain clean. It’s very important. This is why I keep coming and keep cleaning the mountain.
[Go to apasherpafoundation.org for more information on Apa’s charitable work.]
What is the toughest and most dangerous part of mount everest climb? And one more plzz what should a novice climber do to reach the summit of everest?
Hey…..what is the toughest and most dangerous part of everest climb? and what should a beginner do to climb mount Everest? thanks for this opportunity to ask the questions from the great Apa Sherpa…..
Apa: The toughest and most dangerous part is the Khumbu Ice Fall. The Khumbu Ice Fall is very dangerous. It doesn’t matter if you have experience or not, it’s just very dangerous. There are other tough parts, like the Hillary Step, but the danger is in the Ice Fall.
They have to train a lot. They have to climb a lot at high altitudes. They have to have the experience. Climb some other 8,000 meter peaks, like Choy Oyu, first.
Namaste! As a fellow Salt Lake City resident, I’d like to ask Apa what his favorite trails and climbs are around the Salt Lake/Wasatch area. I’m a trail runner and climber and would love to run into him some day! Cheers and Good Luck!
Diddo on the question from Steve Luker from Salt Lake City. Apa, what mountains along the Wasatch Front do you like to climb if it is that you have climbed them? Be safe as we all look forward to your return. The Wasatch Spring has been cold and wet but you should return to a beautiful summer.
Apa: I like Timpanogas and Kings Peak. Kings Peak is the highest mountain in Utah.
Hi Apa! First of all, I’m from Croatia, and I want to tell you that you have many friends here. Lot of people have heard about your Himalaya’s expeditions and contribution to nature maintenance, especially in time when lot of climbers are not conscious in that way.
I wish you good luck on your 20th summit and I hope that you will, first of all return safely to your family!
My question is:
Who is your favourite friend (sherpa) that you, most of all, like to climb with?Do you personaly know Phurba Tashi sherpa, what do you think about him, he is closest to 20th summit after you.
Cheers from Zadar, 0 feet above sea level
Franko
Apa: Actually, I didn’t ever climb with Tenzing Norgay, but he is my favorite person. He was the first guy to find the route to Everest. Even though I didn’t ever climb with him, he is my favorite.
Yes, Phurba is my friend. He is younger than me and most people think that I’m in competition with them, but I’m not. My goal is just to climb every year and help out with the clean-up of Mount Everest. People think we’re in competition, we’re not. I encourage him to beat my record.
Which of the 19 times you’ve already summited has been the most meaningful and why?
Apa: The most memorable was my first time summiting Mount Everest. The first time was better than any time since then.
You are probably the best mountaineer in the world. So why you’re not as famous as Messner or Kukuczka? Do you think Sherpas are underestimated by western media?
Good luck:-)
Aleksandra
Apa: It’s strange, you know, our Sherpa people do all the hard work, but in the media, they focus only on the Western people, not on the Sherpa. The Sherpa have very poor education, so sometimes the Western media may ask them a question, but they won’t know how to answer.
Namaste Apa… We’re practically neighbors here in Utah (I live in Cottonwood Heights) and I’m a big fan. In November 2008, I trekked the Khumba Region for 19 days and fell in love with the area. Although I enjoy climbing, I have no desire to summit Everest but appreciate all you’re doing to bring awareness to climate change. Have you ever visited Ouray Colorado and seen their ice-climbing festival? Namaste and please be safe.
Apa: No, but I would love to go sometime.
Namaste Apa,
Whats going through your mind this time while you’re accompanying Sir Hillary for his last trip to Everest..
Given now even kids are attempting the summit what message you have for aspiring folks..
Best wishes for your safe return & Happy Summiting..
Regards,
Samyak Jain
[Apa won’t be taking the Ashes of Sir Edmund Hillary to the top of Mount Everest. Local lamas felt it would be inappropriate. Next year, there will be a ceremony for the ashes at the Khumjung School that he helped establish.]
Apa, your acclimatization rotation is much shorter than other team members. Is this your normal, comfortable rotation or is it short even by your standards?
Apa: When I used to live in Thame, I would only sleep on the mountain two or three nights because I didn’t need to get acclimated. Since I live in the States now, I took an extra night or two to make sure that I got acclimated. This time was just a little bit longer for me than usual.
Will you say something special to Chomolungma on your 20th summit?
, and can you say what that is?
Apa: Yes. I’m going to pray and say thank you to Chomolungma because she’s looking after me. So far I haven’t even gotten frost bite. So I need to say thank you to Chomolungma.
Hi Apa, i am holding the rock that you so kindly gave me, you know the one it is so cool that i can do it while i communicate with you near the top of the world. Are you planning to skip any of the camps on the bid to summit? I watch my prayer flags thinking of you and the team.
Steve and Lila
Apa: I’m going to skip Camp 1 and Camp3, and just stay in Camp 2 and Camp 4. You’ve helped me a lot in the past. Thank you.
Another question:
With all the high-profile errands and missions you have on this landmark climb are you prepared to abort it if you have to and come back next year to get it all done or are you determined to do it in 2010 or never?
Are you any more inclined to take more risks this time given the extra responsibility to deliver on all these missions? Obviously not all decisions can be calculted and planned out ahead of time, but under what situations/conditions would you make the tough decision to abort these missions and adjorn until next year?
Also, when faced with unexpected circumstances or tough decisions like this, do you rely most on your instincts (experience), or “science”, or statistics, or something else?
Prepared to cheer for you as much in 2011, as in 2010
Hope the hardest decision you have to make is how to celebrate complete vicrory
Roman
Apa: I’m trying very hard to make it this time. I tell everyone here, even myself, that Everest will always be here. Life is more important. If we don’t make it, we can always try next year.
Hello Apa! My name is Justin and I am 9 years old. I live in Michigan in the U.S.A. When you get to the bottom of Mt. Everest after you have reached the summit and come back down again, what do you plan to do?
How can I get your autograph? My Mom lets me check your blog.
Have a safe trip.
Apa: Justin,
I will go back to Base Camp and pray again to Chomolungma to say thank you for safe climbing and safe return. I will burn incense at a puja altar and thank Chomolungma for my safety.
Are you scared? What are your biggest worries?
Apa: Yes, I am scared every time. On the mountain you never know. I am worried for my family. I want to see my family again.
I am also very interested about what trails you enjoy here in Salt Lake.
Do you feel that the mountain has been polluted by “clients” who are ill suited to summit and do not respect it as they should? How does it make you feel about so many foreigners who selfishly climb Everest?
You are so inspiring to me. I hope to do great things like you someday.
Good luck! Stay safe!
Apa: Actually, I would like everyone to feel welcome who wants to climb Everest. I would say to the people who want to climb Mount Everest that they must be prepared very well and train a lot. Without training, you should not try to climb Mount Everest.
Mount Everest has been polluted, but most of the pollution is from the past and we’re trying to clean it up right now. Our government is controlling the waste and requiring every expedition to pay deposits that they will lose if they leave a mess on the mountain. Keeping the mountain clean is very important.
You may not be aware of this, but it gets cold at night at 17,500 feet and above. Thankfully, one of Apa’s sponsors is Hot Chillys. They make some of the best insulating layers you can get. When Apa is heading for his 20th Everest summit, he’ll be wearing Hot Chillys underneath.
I have a couple of pairs of Hot Chillys too and they’re amazing. On the ten-day trek up to base camp they were invaluable. When it got cold, they kept me warm. When it got hot, the light weight construction and breathability kept me from overheating.
Hot Chillys has also donated over $10,000 in product to be sold in Namche. All the proceeds go to the school in Thame, Apa’s hometown. That’s why Apa is proud to be sponsored by Hot Chillys.
Apa holding up a Suunto banner at Everst Base Camp.
One of Apa’s sponsors is Suunto. They make some of the best watches around for mountaineering. The proof of this is the fact that almost everybody up here is wearing a Suunto. No joke. Apa and I are wearing the TGC, which has been incredibly handy.
First off, I’m a Yankee surrounded by people from different countries during this expedition. That means I’m the only one who cares about feet instead of meters. Luckily, the Suunto watch lets me switch the altitude to read in meters and feet so easily I can do it while I’m walking and talking to someone.
For example, someone will ask me what the elevation is. I say it’s 17,493 feet. Then they say, “OK, what’s that using real units of measurement?” I click a few buttons on the Suunto and tell them it’s 5,330 meters. It sure beats dividing by 3.3. in my head.
The Suunto watch has also been incredibly hardy under the tough weather conditions. They also helped build the library in Apa’s home town of Thame. That’s why Apa is proud to be sponsored by them. Thanks Suunto!
By Marshall Thompson
As I pored over weather reports with our expedition leader, Dawa Steven, searching uneasily for a window of good weather during which the climbers could make an attempt at the summit, I asked him if it was always this hard to decide.
“Every year,” he said.
Choosing the correct summit window is a life or death decision and nobody here is taking it lightly. The decision making process of our team includes meteorological data, past experiences, groups consensus, and gut feelings. It has not, to date, included ego, competition, or the vain ambitions for the glory of men. But I can see how easily that can slip into a process.
The other day I looked at the weather and wondered aloud if the 40 to 60 mph winds on May 17 were acceptable. The reason why I posed this query was partially out of ignorance and partially because I wanted to get back to Kathmandu and then back to Salt Lake City where my wife and two kids are waiting for me. In other words, it was a selfish question and had nothing to do with the safety of the team.
Luckily, Apa and Dawa Steven were unaffected. That level of wind was unacceptable, they replied. The temperatures at the summit were already low to begin with, making the wind chill potentially very dangerous.
After looking over several weather reports and debating, our sirdar (or head Sherpa), Nanga, checked around with other camps to see when they were going to summit. There are a few main weather reports that people use here at Everest. Other climbing groups might have a different date based on divergent information among the various reports. That makes the consensus building all the more important. By sirdars talking to other sirdars and guides talking to other guides, an average summit window starts to develop.
At this point in the process, our team has taken all the weather data, considered the burgeoning consensus, and is honing in on a summit window based past experiences and instinct. We don’t have a solid date right now, but it’s looking like it will be later, probably around May 23.
I will keep you posted on the actual date. In the meantime, everyone is trying not to get too bored.
Apa holding up a Eddie Bauer First Ascent banner at Everest Base Camp.
First Ascent, a line of adventure clothing from Eddie Bauer, is the official outfitter of Apa Sherpa’s historic attempt for a record breaking 20th summit of Mount Everest. Apa looks sharp in the clothing, but he’s concerned about much more important things.
“It’s very good,” said Apa. “It’s lightweight, warm and durable.”
When Apa makes his summit push, he’ll be wearing First Ascent clothing and using a First Ascent backpack and other equipment.
Apa said he is proud to be sponsored by First Ascent from Eddie Bauer.
By Marshall Thompson
As of today, I have spent nearly a full month living on a glacier at Mount Everest Base Camp. Over his Everest climbing career, Apa has spent almost three full years living on the glacier beneath the Khumbu Ice Fall. Glacial living is interesting at best. To help you at home understand, I’ve gone around base camp and compiled the 10 best things about living on a glacier. Enjoy.
1. Strange sounds in the night
Just as you’re about to drift off to sleep, you hear a loud, hollow crack and the ground moves a little bit. For the rest of the night you dream about falling into a massive crevasse.
2. Sculpting
If you pee in the same place every night, you can create your own small ice ravine.
3. You never need a cooler
Want to keep something cool? Just chop a hole in the ice near your tent. I’ve even heard reports of Sherpas chopping massive holes in the sides of the glacier to store whole sides of yak. Mmmmm. Yak.
4. The occasional hand or other body part
Over the years, many people have died on Khumbu Ice Fall. Eventually, their bodies move down through the glacier and end up in base camp. It would be inaccurate to picture base camp like a graveyard, but there is a hand that turned up just a few hundred meters from tent. It gives you more to think about when the ice cracks at night.
5. Ergonomic sleeping conditions
After a few weeks sleeping in the same spot, the ice underneath you starts to melt. Soon, you have a comfy spot that has adapted to the shape of your body. It’s natures memory foam.
6. No snakes
This may seem like a no-brainer because the glacier is such an inorganic and cold environment. However, the other day, we saw these cute little mice in our mess tent. These mice, which have no tails, are apparently indigenous to the area, but do not actually live on the glacier. They only show up to eat our scraps. I joked with one of our team members that where there are mice there are snakes. Apparently, she took me seriously and went and cleared out her tent, fearing the whole time that she would happen across some vicious glacier snake.
7. The quick way down
The entire glacier is covered with a thin layer of rock and gravel. When I’m rushing down a hill to the toilet tent in the middle of the night, it often happens that this thin layer of rock and gravel gives way and I end up taking the fast way down. Sure I get some bruises and cuts, but I get to the toilet tent on time, which is ultimately much more important.
8. Every day is different
While living on a glacier, each day is a new experience. The terrain changes constantly. So much so, in fact, that you have to fix the foundation of your tent every two weeks or so. Yesterday, Apa and several other Sherpa’s helped me fix mine. Just in front of my tent, the glacier had melted to the point that my first step every morning was about three feet down. I was starting to take the quick way down to breakfast more and more often. So we moved my tent over, built up a wall of rocks and flattened out the ice. We repositioned the tent to face in a new direction so I shouldn’t have to worry about falling down every morning. Thanks Apa.
9. No lawn mowing
Enough said.
10. Sympathy when you get home
This hasn’t happened to me yet, but I’ve heard it’s quite enjoyable.
Apa navigates the Khumbu Ice Fall during his last rotation before pushing for the summit of Mount Everest.
You know it’s good because it alliterates. Within the next week, the weather should open up and provide a nice window for summitting Mount Everest. Apa has finished all his acclimatization rotations and is simply waiting for the opportunity to make a summit push. Before he goes up for his historic 20th attempt, he will answer any and every question that you have on your minds – even the stupid questions.
Leave your questions in the comments on this post and he will respond to each one personally before he goes up. Have fun!
Update: Comments have now been closed, please see “Questions Answered” post for Apa’s Responses
This week our camp got a little bigger. Adam and Corey from the Extreme Ice Survey are staying with us while they install time lapse cameras and do repeat photography of the Khumbu Ice Fall and other glaciers and peaks in the area. The tag line for the EIS is “seeing is believing” and that makes a lot of sense. With their time lapse photography they have been able to condense several years worth changes in glaciers down to a few minutes of video.
One of their most impressive videos is of a glacier in Iceland. You can watch it melt away in just under three years time. It’s devastating.
They’ve been doing this project for years and have always wanted to come to Mount Everest and the Khumbu Region to film, but lacked the necessary backing. They were spread pretty thin with all the melting glaciers in Greenland, Alaska, Iceland, etc. This year, North Face is helping them capture what’s happening in the Himalayas.
Adam said that normally they’ve been studying high latitude glaciers, but they’ve never done high altitude glaciers. This is mainly because most of the scientific study so far has focused on northern glaciers. On the way up to Base Camp I talked with a few scientists from France who are studying the effects of climate change on the Himalayas at an Italian science station called the Pyramid. (It reminded me of the Dharma Initiative for all you “Lost” fans out there). They said that they just barely got started in 2007.
At least it’s happening now.
I went up with Corey and Adam to install the cameras. They found a nice overhanging of rock with a southern exposure that provides a great view of the entire Khumbu Ice Fall. It’s not easily accessible, but with the help of three great Sherpas we were able to get there with all the necessary equipment. They then drilled into the rock and installed two mounts, along with solar panels and a large battery. One camera will be a wide angle and the other will be a tighter shot of the ice fall through which all south-side Everest climbers must pass.
The cameras will take a photo every half hour when there is sufficient light. Armed with a 32 gigabyte card and solar battery power, they can go for six months before they need to be changed out. Adam said that some of their cameras in other locations have gone as long as one year. So every six months, someone will make the scramble up to the cameras and change out the cards. Then EIS will compile it all after removing bad shots and attempting to smooth out the lighting.
In a year or two, people will be able to see what Apa has been saying for years: that the ice is melting and something needs to be done immediately.
Q: It got pretty snowy while you were in camp 2. Were you worried?
A: The weather was bad. I was a little worried for the clients. I don’t have to worry myself because I was only going to spend two nights there. But the weather wasn’t normal so I waited there. It’s very important that the clients sleep at camp 3. We kind of struggled to get people up there. We tried to push, but we didn’t want to push too hard just in case there was more bad weather.
Q: Eventually the team had to come down before sleeping at camp 3. Was that tough decision to make?
A: Yes, it was a tough decision. We don’t want to go through the ice fall too much. Coming down meant that the clients would have to go through it one more time. But I’m not worried for most of the members since they will be using oxygen through camp 3. So they should be fine.
Q: So what’s next?
A: The next decision is to rest here a couple of days. Check the weather, and then go for the summit.
Bad weather is moving in on Mount Everest the day our team got back to base camp on May 4, 2010.
By Marshall Thompson
The weather has been very unpredictable lately and our team has spent far too many days at Camp 2 waiting for an opportunity to go to Camp 3 and acclimatize. This morning was sunny with no wind, but Apa and the team made the tough decision to come down anyway. It was a good feeling to have them all safe and sound at base camp even though many of them were itching for an opportunity to get just a little closer to the summit.
As Apa says: “Safety first, then summit.”
The weather this afternoon has proven their decision wise. There’s wind and precipitation that would have made it miserable or even dangerous at higher altitudes. Most of the team will probably wait out a storm that we expect to come around Thursday and last into the weekend. In the meantime, I’m just glad to have Apa’s cheerful presence around and have more people to play cards with.
Snow day at Everest Base Camp. Right now the snow is an annoyance, but in a few days it could become dangerous. May 5, 2010.
By Marshall Thompson
Today we woke up to a winter wonderland. Well, not exactly. It has snowed about five inches during the night and base camp was, in fact, covered with a downy blanket of pure white snow that made hands itch to throw a snowball. I worked my way down to the communications tent where I talked to the team at Camp 2. They had just as much snow.
Suddenly, the winter wonderland didn’t seem so nice. Most of the team was heading up to Camp 3 today for acclimatization. One member, however, wasn’t feeling well and was going to head down to base camp today. The snow stopped all the plans. Everyone has to sit tight at Camp 2 until the weather improves.
At the time, I reported that all the team members would be coming down to base camp as soon as possible. However, the weather does seem to be better so they’re all going to stay at Camp 2 for one more night and then see how it goes.
The new weather report we got says there’s going to be snow every day this week. I’m worried right now that what may be an uncomfortable situation today will turn into a dangerous situation tomorrow. We’re staying in frequent radio contact and updating Apa and the team with the latest weather reports.
It should be noted that I’ve been told more than once today to stop worrying – everyone will be fine. I believe that. It’s just hard not to get worked up when you’re stuck at base camp looking up at the mountain. I’ve talked with Apa on the radio. His cough is gone and he seems very confident about what he’s doing. All I can say is that if I were stuck at Camp 2 on Mount Everest, I would want to be stuck with the guy who has climbed her more than anyone else.
Last week I asked Apa if he had a special relationship to the Chomolungma (The Sherpa name for the Goddess who is Mount Everest). He laughed and said, “Maybe she’s watching over me, because she’s let me climb her so many times.”
So to summarize: The bad news is our team is stuck at Camp 2. The Good news is they’re stuck there with Apa.
Before leaving on his last rotation on Mount Everest on April 30, 2010, Apa Sherpa took the time to pray at the puja altar. The moon illuminates the Himalayas in the background.
By Marshall Thompson
Apa is leaving this morning for his final rotation before pushing for the summit. If successful, it will be his 20th time on top of Everest and a new world record. This is one of his last chances to get acclimatized and physically prepared for the summit push. Unfortunately, he has been plagued by a very bad case of the Khumbu Cough. A cough may not seem like that big of a deal, but when you’re struggling to get enough oxygen with every breath, a cough can cut your energy and ability to perform severely. Apa is taking it very practically. He says that if the cough is too bad, he will turn back and delay his last rotation. In the meantime, I think it would helpful if everyone could have their prayers and thoughts with him this evening. Thanks.
The following is a list of the team members and their rotation schedules. I hope you find it helpful.
Apa:
First Rotation – (April 22) Camp 2 and back
Second Rotation – (April 30) Camp 2, sleep at camp 2 two nights, (May 2) come back to base camp.
Third Rotation – Summit Push
Arjun:
First Rotation – (April 18) half way up the ice fall
Second Rotation – (April 20) camp 1, slept one night, (April 21) half way to camp 2, return to base camp.
Third Rotation – (April 22) camp 2 directly, slept at camp 2, (April 23) climbed to the Lhotse wall, one more night at camp 2, (April 24) back to base camp.
Fourth Rotation – (April 30) camp 2 directly, one rest day, camp 3, spend one night at camp 3, back to camp 2, sleep at camp 2, one rest day, sleep at camp 2, back to base camp.
Fifth Rotation – Summit Push.
Mika:
First Rotation – (April 18) half way up the ice fall
Second Rotation – (April 20) camp 1, slept one night, (April 21) half way to camp 2, return to base camp.
Third Rotation – (April 22) camp 2 directly, slept at camp 2, (April 23) climbed to the Lhotse wall, one more night at camp 2, (April 24) back to base camp.
Fourth Rotation – (April 30) camp 2 directly, one rest day, camp 3, spend one night at camp 3, back to camp 2, sleep at camp 2, one rest day, sleep at camp 2, back to base camp.
Fifth Rotation – Summit Push.
Timo:
First Rotation – (April 18) half way up the ice fall
Second Rotation – (April 21) camp 1, slept at camp 1, (April 22) went to camp 2, slept at camp 2, (April 23) climbed to the Lhotse wall (6700 meters), one more night at camp 2, (April 24) back to base camp.
Third Rotation – (April 30) camp 2 directly, one rest day, camp 3, spend one night at camp 3, back to camp 2, sleep at camp 2, one rest day, sleep at camp 2, back to base camp.
Fourth Rotation – Summit Push
Mamta:
First Rotation – (April 20) half way up the ice fall
Second Rotation – (April 21) camp 1, slept at camp 1, (April 22) went to camp 2, slept at camp 2, (April 23) climbed to the Lhotse wall (6700 meters), one more night at camp 2, (April 24) back to base camp.
Third Rotation – (April 30) camp 2 directly, one rest day, camp 3, spend one night at camp 3, back to camp 2, sleep at camp 2, one rest day, sleep at camp 2, back to base camp.
Fourth Rotation – Summit Push
Bhagyashree:
First Rotation – (April 29) ice fall.
Second Rotation – to be determined
Cleo:
First Rotation: (April 15) camp 1, sleep at camp 1, (April 16) camp 2, sleep at camp 2, (April 17) return to base camp.
Second Rotation: (April 22) camp 2, sleep at camp 2, (April 23) camp 3, sleep at camp 3, (April 24) descend to camp 2, sleep at camp 2, (April 25) sleep at camp 2, (April 26) descend to base camp.
Meagan:
First Rotation – (April 18) half way up the ice fall.
Second Rotation – (April 27) camp 1, sleep at camp 1, (April 28) camp 2, sleep at camp 2, (April 29) rest day at camp 2, (April 30) camp 2 rest day, (May 1) climb to camp 3, sleep at camp 3, (May 2) camp2, sleep at camp 2, (May 3) return to base camp.
Third Rotation – Summit Push
Pasang is our new camera man/sherpa. He's really going to do a great job.
By Marshall Thompson
Somebody once asked Sir Edmund Hillary why all the pictures at the top of Mount Everest were of Tenzing Norgay. He replied simply that Tenzing didn’t know how to work the camera. It’s a funny little anecdote that highlights a practical challenge for Apa and his team on his attempt for 20 summits: photography.
It’s one thing to take a good picture at your backyard picnic, but it’s quite another thing to take a picture at the highest point in the world where winds were blowing at 50 mph and the temperature was -24 degrees Fahrenheit last week. It’s more than difficult actually, it’s dangerous.
Apa has some amazing sponsors that I will be writing about periodically. He really appreciates their help in making all this possible. For each one of them, he will hold up a separate banner on the top of Everest and get a high res photo. This means that somebody has to remove enough layers of their gloves to operate a camera and take the pictures fast enough not to get frostbite. Let me introduce to you, Pasang.
Pasang is one of Apa’s cousins and is an incredibly strong and experienced Sherpa on Mount Everest. The only catch was, that like Tenzing, he didn’t know how to use a camera. Today he completed my three day intensive course and I’ve got to say I’m very impressed. I quizzed him on all the functions of the camera, how to hold it in different situations, where to position Apa in relation to the sun, how to run the video camera, how to hold it steady, etc. He finished his intensive course by breaking down the cameras military style and putting them back together. I think he’s ready.
We’ve also arranged backup cameras and photographers from other members of the group and other Sherpas. In the end, I think we’ll have some great pictures to look at.
Q: What do you do to prepare when you go up for a rotation?
A: Most of the stuff I’ve already packed. I don’t need that much right now. I have to get in a good mindset because the icefall is very dangerous. This is not a casual thing.
Q: What’s your biggest concern right now with the expedition?
A: My biggest concern is that our clients have to sleep at camp 3 this rotation. Camp 3 is 24,000 feet so sleeping without oxygen is hard, but it’s the most important things for acclimatization. If they don’t get sick that night at camp 3, that means they are acclimatized.
Q: How is the expedition going?
A: So far it’s OK. They’re fixing the route fast, which is good. So far it’s good, except one person, but she just got here so I hope she will be Ok. Otherwise, everyone is strong.
Q: You had a bit of a cough earlier. How is it going?
A: My cough is OK. It’s almost completely gone now. The Khumbu cough is normal, everybody gets it. There’s not any real treatment, it just goes away.
Q: What are your main concerns about this summit attempt?
A: I thought we would leave tomorrow for the third rotation, but I changed my mind and postponed one more day to make sure everyone has enough rest. Then we’ll leave for Camp 2. After that I will send the team members up to Camp 3, but I will stay in Camp 2 and relay radio messages. I will sleep one night or two nights at Camp 2 and then come back. That will be our last rotation for acclimatization.
Q: Are you feeling strong?
A: So far, OK. I’ll go to Camp 2 and come back. Then wait for the weather.
By Marshall Thompson
The other night we had a visit from Three Finns and it was a night to remember. The Three Finns came to our camp to visit with Mika and Timo, the two Finns who are climbing with the Eco Everest Expedition. Mika and Timo are very serious, polite and pleasant people. The Three Finns, on the other hand, are hard drinking, loud laughing, rascals of the highest order.
They are each roughly the size of a refrigerator, except for Yonni, the youngest, who is even bigger and bears a striking resemblance to Lurch for the Adamm’s Family. They have distinguished themselves in the past by climbing Mount Everest without Sherpa assistance. This year, however, they decided to break down and hire one Sherpa to help them get their stage their loads at the higher camps.
When they’re not climbing, the Three Finns are drinking vodka and Everest Lager. That’s the state in which I met them the other day as one of them mused, “How come nobody writes about climbing Everest drunk?”
Of course this was just a joke. The other two quickly pointed out that they have a hard and fast rule, no booze on the mountain. Rest days at base camp, however, are a different story. That’s why they came bustling into our camp blasting the Beach Boys on a small speaker system and insisting that we all sit down and have a good conversation. And so we did.
As the evening wore on as we huddled around the heater in our mess tent, the apparent leader of the Three Finns, stopped the music suddenly. In a refined, almost British, English accent, he said, “I don’t know the mood of the room, but I think we might benefit from some Jim Bellushi who died tragically doing a mix of cocaine and heroin called speed balls.”
He then proceeded to play the Blues Brothers soundtrack. Despite his inebriated state, he had perfectly calculated the mood of the room. By the time Aretha Franklin was singing “Think,” everyone was feeling good, even if we hadn’t just consumed an unholy amount of vodka like our visitors, the Three Finns.
One of the most interesting parts of base camp is the rumor mill that seems to run faster in high altitudes. I thought I would share with you a smattering of some of the best/interesting things I’ve heard since I’ve been here. Let me stress right now that I don’t think some of these things are true, but they are truly rumors. Enjoy.
1. Brad Pitt is here!
One of the Sherpa guides swears that he saw a porter pick up a bag for one Brad Pitt. He didn’t believe it until a few moments later he saw a man who looked just like Brad Pitt. I don’t know what’s more phenomenal, that Brad Pitt might be climbing Everest or that there is a guy who looks like Brad Pitt – lucky devil.
I’ve thought about making the rounds about base camp and looking for Brad Pitt, mainly because my wife made me swear that I would. The problem is base camp is so chaotic. There’s no organization, just a thousand or so tents pitched in relative areas. There’s also no easy means of communication between camps. So short of walking around for a few hours asking if anyone has seen Brad Pitt, it’s impossible to verify.
In the end, my confidence level on this rumor is extremely low.
2. Russian team arrested
A few days ago two rescue helicopters came into base camp. We figured that people were being taken down for some life-threatening condition. However, the rumor is that a Russian climbing team was arrested for trying to go up a peak without permission. The peak in questions was supposedly Nuptse, which everyone can easily see from base camp. This raises some doubts in my mind. If you were going to climb illegally wouldn’t you be more discrete?
Confidence level medium.
3. Disco Party
Supposedly some Canadian team is going to hold an epic disco-themed bash where everyone will dance until they literally run out of oxygen (High altitude parties are complicated). Some even talked about the presence of a small, but effective mirror ball. I haven’t been able to confirm or disprove that yet.
Confidence level medium.
That’s all the rumors for right now, but I will keep you posted. In the meantime, I’m trying to think of a good rumor to start. Any ideas?
Today I went hiking with Apa. It was great. He wanted to run down to a small peak called Kalapathar for some exercise and asked me along. I said, sure, but I’ll slow you down. He laughed and said that was OK.
On the way he said he needed to run an errand to the Poomore base camp, which is much higher altitude than Kalapathar. Sure, I said. A few breathless hours later and we hadn’t found the person Apa needed. Everywhere we stopped, people wanted pictures. Apa obliged.
We then set out to Kalapathar. About half way there, Apa turned to me perceptively.
“We can go back right now if you want,” he said.
I’m not going to lie. Keeping up with Apa was killing me. So I laid down my pride and told him I thought I better get back to base camp.
“I’m a huge wimp,” I said.
To which Apa gave his signature high-pitched laugh and made me feel much better about myself.
On the way back, a group of American hikers saw Apa coming and started whispering to each other. As he passed, one blurted out, “It is him! Get a picture.”
Apa obliged.
I sat down with Apa yesterday and we talked about his plan for climbing Everest for the 20th time. The center of the plan is minimizing the number of times he has to cross the dangerous ice fall. Many old timers on the mountain have told me that warmer seasons in the past couple of years have made the ice fall more dangerous than ever. Avoiding it as much as possible is the only sensible thing to do.
Apa’s advantage here is that he requires less acclimatization than most other foreign climbers. So, this morning he left for his first rotation. In his first leg he will go up to camp 2 and come back down in the same day. The next rotation he will sleep at Camp 3 and come back. The final trip through the ice fall will be on his summit push. So he will have a total of six trips through the ice fall.
Compare that to when he was working as a climbing Sherpa and had to navigate the ice falls up to 30 times in a season. I asked Apa what his main concern was with the ice fall, expecting a technical answer. He replied that it made his family nervous, and he didn’t want them to be concerned. Classic Apa.
By Marshall Thompson
The Eco Everest Expedition is full of record-breaking activities. First off, Apa is going for a new world record with 20 Everest summits. But there’s more. Arjun is attempting to be the youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest at age 16. If he’s successful he will either be the second youngest or the third youngest anywhere to climb Mount Everest. Cleo is attempting to be the first North American woman to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. She’s also planning a double header by hitting Lhotse, a neighboring peak, also without supplemental oxygen.
Unlike Apa and Arjun, however, Cleo has competition. There’s another woman at base camp who is going for the record.
Carina Raiha, with the Peak Freak Expedition, is attempting to be the first Finnish woman to climb Mount Everest. I’ve talked with Carina and she quit her job and has been training for a year for this. Now she gets to base camp and there’s a usurper. It must be frustrating.
It’s also deadly. Sometimes it’s easy to think of climbing Mount Everest like a sport. But it’s not. Nobody dies in the NBA playoffs. Football players don’t have closed casket funerals. Mountaineers do. As an observer here at base camp, I get sick to my stomach every time I hear about these record-breaking competitions.
I asked Apa yesterday if he was worried about breaking his own record. He said absolutely not. He’s not interested in records.
Fair enough, I said. But what about the people who come after you. Are you worried about someone trying to break your record and getting hurt or dying.
Apa responded simply and emphatically: They shouldn’t do that.
My heart and prayers go out to Cleo and Carina. My hope is that when it comes down it to it, they’ll think like Apa and do only what they should do.
By Marshall Thompson
I sat down yesterday and did an interview with Apa and Carina Raiha, who is attempting to be the first Finnish woman to climb Mount Everest. They are both ambassadors for the World Wildlife Fund’s Climate 4 Life campaign (http://www.climate4life.org) that is working to raise awareness about the effects of global warming on the Himalayas.
The final video of the interview will be available through Climate 4 Life soon. I had a few immediate thoughts that I wanted to point out.
First off, it occurred to me that Mount Everest is a much more salient subject for global warming than polar ice caps. For instance, I’ve never seen a polar ice cap or met anyone who depended on them. I know that’s not the whole point, but everything else is indirect at best.
I saw Van Jones, the erstwhile green jobs czar for the White House, speak once. It was inspiring. One paraphrased idea that has always stuck with me was: Only rich white people care about polar bears.
As a middle class white person, this struck a chord. For global climate change to make sense, the examples have to be concrete and have real results for people. For me Mount Everest does that.
First off, it’s the tallest point on the planet, not just in Nepal or Aisa – the entire planet. In that sense, we all have ownership of it. Everest is everyone’s mountain in the same way that we all share the sun and the moon.
Secondly, the effects of climate change have some measurable and immediate ramifications for the Sherpa people. When the glaciers up here melt faster, they form glacier lakes. When these lakes burst, it sends floods down the Khumbu destroying cities and lives.
Thirdly, billions of people depend on the water that comes directly from the Himalayas. That’s not joke. If the industrialized nations continue to spew carbon until the snowmelt on Everest is depleted then there will literally be billions of people in severe draught. Holy expletive deleted!
When you see the video you’ll see how passionate Apa is about the subject and it will all make sense. He’s been climbing Everest for over two decades. He remembers places where there was snow and ice everywhere and now there is only rock. He remembers having to melt snow at camp 2 for water. This is no longer necessary because there are pools of water readily available.
As Apa says in the forthcoming video: Now is the time to stop climate change!
By Marshall Thompson
This is an apolitical entry about one of the most controversial figures in world politics today: Pres. Barack Obama. I’m the only American at the Asian Trekking base camp, and I’ve only met one other American since I’ve been here. People often ask me what I think of Obama. I return the question, and have been constantly surprised by a uniformly positive response.
In fact, I found out that one of our guides, Kami Tshering Sherpa, took a picture of Obama to the top of Everest for his first summit. It was surprising. I would never think of taking a picture of the Prime Minister of Nepal with me anywhere. That’s nothing against the Prime Minister of Nepal, whose name escapes me at this time. It’s just not a priority.
So, I asked Kami, “Why Obama?”
He said that he likes Obama very much and was inspired by him. He took the picture up because he hoped it would be a symbol of increased cooperation and respect between the two countries.
I’m with Kami.
P.S. Kami asked me if I could show this photo to the White House. I said, maybe, but don’t expect anything. Does anybody have a contact there? Let us know.
By Marshall Thompson
Now that the puja ceremony is over, the real climbing can begin. At 5 a.m. this morning, four climbers – Mika, Mumta, Arjun and Meagan – headed up the ice falls. Mumta has been ill for the past few days so she will return tonight to sleep at base camp. The others will all sleep at Camp 1.
I just heard on the radio that they have all arrived safely and are getting comfortable. It’s great news.
Three other climbers – Cleo, Timo and Apa – stayed at base camp today. Timo is feeling ill, Cleo had a jump start on acclimatization, and Apa just arrived a few days ago and is taking it slowly.
Soon we’ll have everybody up on the mountain. Right now we’re watching the weather closely and preparing for summit window to open up, probably in three or four weeks.
Apa is a great influence at base camp. His humility has been the means of diffusing many an argument. I’m starting to see why so many people have insisted that he be part of their expeditions.
Apa Sherpa reaches for some tea during the puja ceremoney at Everst Base Camp, Nepal on April 19, 2010. Now that the puja ceremony has been performed, it is permitted for climbers and sherpas to sleep on Mount Everest. Now the climbing begins!
By Marshall Thompson
Today we held our puja ceremony to ask forgiveness and permission for climbing on Mount Everest, which is the abode and person of a Sherpa goddess. It was an elaborate ceremony with a lama chanting prayers in front of an altar for nearly an hour and a half straight. Then the Sherpa raised a pole on the alter and stretched prayer flags from it in all directions. After that, there was more eating and drinking and eventually dancing.
The Sherpa, and anybody else who wants to join in, put their arms over each others’ shoulders, stomp their feet rhythmically and sing. This joyous expression lasted for another hour and a half.
At this point, all the equipment is blessed and the Eco Everest Expedition has permission to stay overnight on the slopes of Chomolungma, or Mount Everest. This is exciting. This is when the real climbing begins.
This is a picture of an avalanche about five seconds before it covered our camp in a layer of snow. Everest Base Camp, April 19, 2010.
By Marshall Thompson
My first night in base camp I woke up to what I thought was a jet flying overheard. Upon short reflection I realized this would be impossible since jets don’t generally fly over Mount Everest. That was my first experience with an avalanche at base camp. Since then, I’ve become use to the fairly regularly thundering of cascading ice and snow. This morning, however, was exceptional.
I heard such a loud boom that I knew it had to be close. I jumped out of my sleeping bag, grabbed my camera and poked it out of the tent just in time to capture this picture of a massive cloud of snow heading my way. I caught it on video until it over took the camp and filled my tent with a light drift of snow. It was amazing. It was the first time I’ve ever been avalanched on.
It’s amazing to see these mountains in the process of change. Every physical feature on earth is experiencing erosion to some degree, but the Himalayas are on a different level. Daily avalanches are constantly throwing rock and debris down from the top and cutting deep between the peaks. Massive glaciers are scraping down as well like big blue tongues carving up the mountains before your eyes.
As I’ve mentioned before, Apa was running all over the Khumbu Region of Nepal before he could make it up to the Mount Everest Base Camp on April 18. He covered a massive amount of territory meeting family, getting blessings, posing for photographs and meeting with the Himalayan Trust.
“Every time we go (up Mount Everest) we need to make sure that the gods are happy and that the family is happy, too.”
Now Apa is finally here, the fun really begins. We will hold our puja tomorrow morning. After that, the Eco Everest team can stay overnight on the mountain. This means more rigorous training and acclimatization excursions leading up to the summit attempt sometime in May depending on weather and schedule with other expeditions.
Apa said he’s excited to be here and glad to start climbing.
